V.I.Nikishov, I.T.Selezov, V.V.Khomitsky Evolution amd transformation of surface gravity waves in coastal zone |
Applied hydromechanics, Vol. 12 (84) ¹ 4, (2010) |
| The results of modeling surface gravity waves incoming from a deep water into a coastal zone characterizing by an arbitrary topography are presented. Investigation is carried out on the basis of a ray theory and is reduced to solving the Cauchy problem. Representation of a bottom topography is possible both analytical or discrete form. Test of algorithm is conducted by using some known exact solutions and calculations for concrete Black Sea coast are presented. Particle sedimentation in a wave flow on the basis of the Cauchy problem is modelled and comparison with obtained experimental data are given. The results of theoretical and experimental investigations of slope reforming as results of sedimentation are presented. |
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KEY WORDS: surface gravity waves, coastal zone, wave flow |
| TEXT LANGUAGE: Russian |